Hello dear friends of the community. I am all out of cash as it was all spent recently. Alas, a nasty injury forced me home slightly earlier than expected and so a naughty summit assault of a Kashmiri Himalayan peak eluded me and a friend of mine. As part of my recouperation, we are planning a new trip. We knew I would not be fit to climb again until August, and by then the central himlayan range of slashed by the ghastly storms of the Monsoon coming in from the southwest (I began to see its beginnings when I was around Darjeeling and Sikkim in early May). That leaves the alps (am already v sad to be missing a trip to do Mt Blanc Tacul and the Auguilles on the Massif in July) which are not worth the similar costs and technical difficulty and lesser height or the central asian ranges. I don't want to be killed by the taliban so the Hindu Kush are off, I don't want to die so the Karakoram are off, I can't pay for chinese permits to the Tian Shan are off - leaving just the Pamir. It JUST so happens that an old primary school friend has left an open invitation to his home in kyrgyzstan and his friends in Tajikistan are in the same boat.
THE PAMIR IT IS.
I'm currently in the process of buying the necessary maps, but at this early stage me and my bud have selected these two JUICY peaks - Vladimir Putin Peak in the Kyrgz Tian Shan, and Mount Chok-Tal in a wedge between the Tien and the Northern Pamir.
Both are attaimable and we have plans for viables routes - the first entails the indirect South Face up to the Western Col and then a night there, before a run to the summit along the ridge and back down in a third day to the Dzhartash valley to BC. The second peak is a lot more straightforward. It's aa two day ridge push on mostly metamorphic sandstone with a final long slog midday second day along the two summit ice field separaed by easy rock pitches. A third day of descent with abseils off the lower buttresses to save time. Images for proof:
Big problem is, there is some gear I need and am v poor. I need 2x 60m 8mm rope, one new jumar, 1 large blue 1 small yellow and two intermediate cams and a new down jacket. All other kit I have or can borrow from friends. No gear renting shops in Kyrgz that I trust. Please can one of the very rich players of this game help me out and PM to buy me one of the listed items please. if you buy me something you can make a request of something cool that is within my power to do.
fucking please help me